Let me start by saying I am by no means a “big wave surfer”. For me this means the heroes who are tackling 30ft face waves when Jaws kicks off, or riding the infamous Nazare. Or Mavericks.
Obviously, size depends on your comfort level. But all the advice I’m giving here, applies to anyone at any level, going for that next step up.
Some people consider double overhead (2 x your height) a big wave, and I do too.
A beginner surfer may consider 2ft wave 14 seconds (about shoulder to head height) to be a big wave. It all depends on what you’re used to. But the principles of stepping up in size are the same. What ever size gets the adrenalin pumping, will need your wits about you, courage and a certain amount of skill.
Remember to breathe and keep your focus. Don’t let your ego talk you into going out, or your self saboteur stop you going out.
Remember it’s still about having fun!
My biggest waves to date have been triple overhead (about 17ft face waves), and this has only been three times so far. But each of those times has a good story! I love the adrenalin rush and a fast drop on the wave. But it took me years to build up to this size, and many mistakes that could have ended very badly.
So here are my top tips for taking a step up to bigger waves:
1. Know your wave.
If you’re paddling out to a wave you don’t know well, and it’s a big day you’re not going to know what’s underneath you, i.e. rocks, reef, etc . Or exactly where the peak/take-off section is. This can make it more dangerous and make you lose confidence. A wave you know well is easier to adjust yourself to, for a bigger day. You will still know where the peak should come in more or less on a point break, and where your rips and rocks are etc.
So don’t paddle out into an unknown wave saying “I’ve done this size once before” Only do unfamiliar waves on a height your comfortable with.
2. Get used to surfing a certain sized wave.
You brain is an amazing piece of tech that remembers and calculates every wave you have seen. So when you’re paddling out and you see the set waves, ask your brain “have I seen this size before? Is it a little bigger than I’ve surfed or a lot bigger?” If it’s a little bigger, then maybe go for it!
If you get smashed and scared after taking off on the first one just paddle back in. You had the guts to go for one, so congratulate yourself. But normally if you go for it, and fall off that wave and realize the tumble wasn’t that bad. Then you should be good for the session. After all now you know the power of the wave.
Once you get used to surfing a certain sized wave, then maybe step up a foot or so. So if you’re confident on a 4ft 12 second day*, then you’ll feel more prepared on a 5 foot 12 second day. This way, when you see the waves, your brain is telling you: “OK this looks familiar. It’s a bit bigger than I’m used to, but not insanely different. (I CAN DO THIS!!)”.
Use the same wave indicators online so you can say: “ok, Magicseaweed says this is 5ft, 15 second wave, and I know what that looked like out there.” So next time when you check the swell report, you have a good idea of what to expect. Then you are mentally prepared pre-session as well.
This is the same for when magic seaweed says a 2ft 14 second day that you had fun in. Then the next day it says 2.5ft 14 seconds. This tells you it’s slightly bigger but you can probably handle it.
Pro Tip:
If you don’t understand wave chart reading ask a surfer friend to explain it to you. This will help you pick the right size waves for your current level.
4ft 8 seconds to 4ft 18 seconds can make a huge difference in size this would be almost twice the size on the face of the wave. So make sure you understand the charts!!
Remember also, sometimes the charts can be off. So if it looks like its going to be a bigger wave day than your normally used to, watch the waves before hand for 20 minutes. This way you should get a full set cycle and see the biggest waves in the set.
See the surfers taking off on the waves and where it measures to his/her body from the bottom of the wave. And then compare that to what you’re used to surfing.
If you can’t tell the size because no one else is out there, ask locals why no one is there or a lifeguard. Maybe the currents are crazy strong that day or its the wrong tides. (again know your wave, or go with a local.
*A little note: Different countries surfers measure (and label) waves differently. For example, in the UK a 4 foot wave refers to the face of the wave, but in Indonesia, Australia and Hawaii, a ‘4 foot wave could turn out to be a 7–8 foot face. As in Indo, And Australia the wave period is often 2 x that of UK.
3. An old saying in surfing: If it doesn’t feel right, don’t paddle out.
If you’re too scared, you won’t be launching yourself into the wave like you should be, and pulling out at the last second can be more dangerous than taking the wave! You risk going over the falls and/or losing your board underneath you, potentially smacking into another surfer, dragging you over or snapping your leash.
A bit out of your comfort zone is OK, but too much, (scared shitless!) wont get you any waves.
So trust your instincts not your ego.
But if you feel confident enough to take off on at least 1 wave then commit to catching it 100%
Falling off a wave you’ve already launched into will give you less impact from the wave as you can safely dive off the board into deep water. But if you stall at the top and don’t commit, the lip throws you over. Which is where the hardest impact comes from. So if you’ve had enough confidence to paddle out back, commit when paddling for that wave.
No matter what, you’re going to launch into that take off!
4. Have the right size board for the wave.
This obviously depends on the size of YOU as well, and what you’re comfortable with, and your budget! But if you fancy stepping up to bigger waves and making it a regular thing where you live, and the swell is pumping consistently 5+ft (more than head height) waves, then you should look into a bit more length and volume to your stick.
For example: When I am riding 5–6ft wave with some double overhead size on my 5,10ft pin tail, 18 ½ wide, 2 1/3 thick. I am doing vertical take-offs.
If I had my choice of board sizes for anything bigger than double over head, I would love a 6,3 or perhaps a 6,6ft gun. It’s an all-rounder and should nudge you into the wave a hair second before the Niagara Falls moment!
I am 5,7 ft tall.
If you are a relatively new shortboarder I recommend a 6,6ft board if your height is less than 6ft because this size you can still duck dive, but it will get you into any wave with some size earlier, so you’re charging the drop, just ahead of time. It’s also good for small waves too.
If you are a minimal board rider (anything over 6,7) but less than a longboard for bigger waves. Make sure you have mastered your turtle roll. Also perhaps choose point break waves with a channel or rip current you can pull out of the wave line and into.
* Generally speaking if you can’t control your board and have to keep abandoning it and diving under waves, you are probably out in waves you are not ready for!
* Also, make sure your leash is not too old if your going out in bigger waves. Perhaps have a newer leash you put on for those bigger days. And anything double overhead consider a 7ft leash. Generally speaking a leash should be the same ish size of your board.
5. Quit while you’re ahead.
If you’ve caught 2 or 3 waves out of your comfort zone, and all the time the adrenalin has been pumping, call it a day before you’re suddenly too tired to take off or paddle in.
(Trust me, I learned the hard way. See Big Ulus and Misadventures story)
Because that again is the dangerous part, when you are constantly feeling the adrenalin. Not just the adrenalin when you’re catching the waves. Always keep a little fuel in the tank in case of surprise big sets, rogue monsters or currents, etc. So you can get back in safely. That way too, you’ve had a good session and you know it’s all achievable for next time.
6. Surf with a friend
If possible, surf with a friend, someone who is used to bigger size or very familiar with the wave. This way, you look out for each other. But, if he/she is a crazy big wave rider, make sure they don’t push you into anything too extreme, or over your level.
A little added confidence boost from a mate could be just the ticket for gearing you on. And you know they have your back if something happens to your board or leash.
7. Build your confidence and practice holding your breath under water.
Any breath-hold, free-diving training you do will be helpful for the mental preparation to cope with wave hold downs. Not only the mental preparation, but the physical aspects of what happens to your body when you’re holding your breath under water. A little snorkelling fun or free diving will also help you feel more comfortable under water.
If you’re serious about it, then go do a free-diving course somewhere, and learn from a professional. (Breath-hold diving can be serious when pushing yourself because of shallow water black outs. So anything involving the mammalian reflex techniques should be done under professional instruction).
8. Don’t give yourself a hard time.
You’ll get there eventually. A little step up at a time.
If you go way too big, too soon and get so scared or injured, it’ll take much longer to build back your confidence, than if instead, you get a bit scared and worked over, but still managed to hold your shit together in waves a bit bigger than you’re comfortable in. Then you know little by little you can build up to bigger waves.
The mind is very good on playing tricks on us and devils advocate.
Just look at the waves your computer brain tells you if you’ve surfed this size before. If it’s a little bigger maybe a 1ft bigger on the face then maybe you know you can handle it.
Congratulate yourself even if you paddle out and come straight back in. Even paddling out was brave. And next time you could get one!
9. Make sure your clothes stay on!
You have enough to worry about with big waves without having to deal with your clothes being ripped off. Timing is everything in surfing. So that’s why (obviously) we recommend something like a Surf Worthy bikini, that I used to make.
A cross back style top, tied bottoms, or a one-piece for women. For men, make sure the bottoms tie with chords.
10. Have fun! For me it’s all the about the rush of the drop.
If you’re not having fun, paddle back in. There are always more waves on other days. NEVER GIVE IN TO PEER PRESSURE. I’ve done that and almost got myself killed in waves too big for my level and not the right board for the occasion. But I listened to an Aussie surfer friend say “she’ll be right mate!;)”
Surfing is about you and the wave, your journey in this life long sport. Don’t let anyone talk you into what your not prepared for.
But if it’s NOT too crazy bigger than what your used to, Just go for it! Believe in yourself!
